The Wolds Way: finished at last

Back in January, when we started walking the Wolds Way, I said I'd update as we went along (*cough* sorry about that).

Today, we finally finished the 79 miles, on the top of Filey Brigg, the same spot where the Cleveland Way ends.

It's been a walk with some good sections, and some fairly boring ones. Not as strenuous as the Cleveland Way, but with a few very steep uphill stretches.

Where it really let us down was in the quality of the tea shops (when we could find one, they were very few and far between), and pubs. Until today, when first we called in at the charming and quirky Ship Inn in Muston for coffee. Worth a return visit.

When we reached Filey we found ourselves on the West Cliff, an elegant terrace with a bandstand, and, nestled below, next to what used to be a lawn where Queen Victoria once played croquet, was the delightful Cafe Rendevous.

We'd promised ourselves fish and chips as our reward for our achievement, and these were delicious. Fresh, beautifully cooked and very reasonably priced. Washed down with a pot of tea, we then just had to walk along the sea front, and finally climb to the top of the cliff to reach the end of the walk.

And where next? Well, we already have a few ideas.

The 'bottle it' moment

Every year, on holiday, there is a moment where I consciously think ‘this is the moment I want to save for later’. The moment that I can recall when I’m sitting shivering in the depths of winter, looking out at grey skies, and feeling like it will never be sunny again. I can think back to those saved moments, and remember how it felt. The sun on my back, the relaxation, the experience.

Over the years, they’ve come in various forms. A trip in a boat from Cassis in Provence to the Calanques, drinking a cocktail in Palma. Last year, it was sitting by the sea in Bodrum, eating lunch, with a view of both beach and castle.

This year, it was drinking tea in the garden of La Mamounia. So peaceful, the only sound was the birds in the trees. So quiet too, I started to wonder if anyone could actually afford to stay there. Tranquil, elegant and wonderful. A world away from the hustle and bustle of the Medina. No rush, no hurry, and remarkably affordable.

Sheer bliss

Road to Morocco

When Cat and I first talked about having a few days holiday in September, we thought about going to the Lakes, a bit of walking, pub meals etc. But then Cat spotted some cheap deals for a city break in Marrakech. The Lakes, where it rains a lot, and after the summer we’ve had, or Marrakech, on the edge of the Sahara, where it doesn’t rain very much at all? No contest really, and very soon we were browsing Riads.

Riads are houses in the Medina, or old city, which have been refurbished as B&B accommodation. Tucked away behind windowless walls opening onto a central courtyard, you wouldn’t know that most of them are there. Our riad was more tucked away than most, in a part of the Medina that many tourists won’t see.

About 15 minutes walk from the main square, after the first 5 minutes or so of walking, you’re out of the tourist area, and into the streets where the Marrakechi shop. You’re constantly dodging bikes, mopeds, cars (when they can get down the street) and donkey carts, eventually reaching Sidi Ayoub Square. From there, you take a right down a narrow alley, through a tunnel and follow another couple of narrow alleys.

Just before an archway, which looks as though it’s been knocked through the wall, is a door. Knocking on it, you’re let into a calm and cool courtyard, which is a world away from the streets outside.

A central fountain, a plunge pool, and rooms on three levels. For all the time that we were there, there was only one other set of guests, so it was like having our own private riad for much of the time. I wouldn't have wanted to stay anywhere else*.

*well, apart from La Mamounia, perhaps, if funds allowed.